WORKSHOPS Links:

Painting Flowers - Mandy Southan
Colour Mixing - Mandy Southan
Decorative Effects - Leonard Thompson
Dyeing Devores - Caroline Munns
Silk Choker Necklace - Linda Graves
Wax Melting Pots - Jill Kennedy
Gutta Pro-liners - Isabella Whitworth
Javana Air Pen - Isabella Whitworth
Microwave Dyeing - Vera Dreyfuss
Painting Borders - Tessa Barnes
Ten Top Tips - Jill Kennedy
Transferring designs - Anon
Free-style landscapes - Marianne Nash
Painted Silk Poppy - Mandy Southan
Magic Lettering - Leonard Thompson
Painted Lilies - Mandy Southan
The Silk Road - Mandy Southan
Aspects of Design - Leonard Thompson
Selling your work - Ian Bowers
Japan: Textiles - Mandy Southan

 

TEN TOP TIPS - Jill Kennedy


1. Clean all brushes in lukewarm water as soon as you have finished painting. Twirl them on a bar of soap and use dilutant or alcohol for the final rinse.

2. If you want a really deep black colour and you are using steam fix dye, try steaming for longer than usual. (Use a double layer of steaming paper for extra protection).

3. Write on your bottles of dye the date you bought them; they do have a shelf life and if your dyes are past this recommended shelf life you are taking a chance, especially if you are selling your work.

4. To prolong shelf life always store dyes and resists in a cool dark place. Water based resists can be stored in the fridge in the
warm weather.

 

5. To stretch silk really taut, wet the silk first and then stretch it on the frame. It will dry and become very tight.

6. Keep three foam brushes aside, one for using dilutant and water, one for yellow only and one for black.

7. When washing foam brushes you do not need soap, rinse them repeatedly under warm water, squeeze and hang upside down to dry.

8. Always wear a mask when mixing powdered procion dyes.

9. When using the salt technique, use a battery vacuum (hand-held cleaner) to pick up all the grains of salt from the silk.

10. When mixing a colour make sure you mix enough, or take notes on the exact quantities you have used.